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[Gourmet of Lingnan] Lin Weihui: Cantonese cuisine reflects Lingnan spirit in culinary culture 【食尚岭南】岭南食经|林卫辉:粤菜生猛够地道,饮食文化隐藏岭南精神
来源:羊城晚报 云上岭南 发表时间:2023-11-22 13:41

一条蒸鱼能品出粤菜的鲜甜之味,一碟炒时蔬能品出粤菜的清新口感,一碟白切鸡能品出粤菜对肉质处理的细腻手法……粤菜色香味俱全,一道我们常见、常吃的菜式包含着美妙的烹饪哲学。

Cantonese cuisine encompasses not only vibrant colors, enticing aromas and delightful tastes but also a profound culinary philosophy. A steamed fish reveals the freshness of the ingredients, a plate of stir-fried vegetables unveils the refreshing texture of Cantonese cuisine, and a serving of boiled tender chicken showcases the delicate technique in handling meat...


美食作家、美食纪录片《风味人间》美食顾问、黑珍珠餐厅指南特邀顾问林卫辉长期研究各地美食,从食材剖析美食隐藏的文化故事。吃遍了大江南北美食,身为潮汕人的林卫辉对粤菜颇有心得,他认为,粤菜反映了岭南文化,粤菜的守正和创新不是平行的关系,粤菜创新是为了守正,粤菜是在创新中成长,创新是粤菜的传统。

Lin Weihui, a food writer, a culinary consultant for the documentary series "Once Upon A Bite" and an esteemed advisor to the Black Pearl Restaurant Guide, has dedicated himself to exploring the cultural stories hidden behind various cuisines. Having tasted the diverse flavors across the country, Lin, as a native of the Chaoshan area, offers valuable insights into Cantonese cuisine. He believes that Cantonese cuisine reflects the essence of Lingnan culture, where tradition and innovation are not parallel but symbiotic. The innovation in Cantonese cuisine serves the purpose of upholding tradition, as growth and evolution are embedded in its innovative spirit.



说起粤菜的特征,林卫辉认为,以“生猛”二字来形容不为过。“粤菜的生猛不只是新鲜,还十分形象。比如一条鱼,在它活泼乱跳和气若游丝之时,其鱼肉的分子结构是不同的,两种状态的鱼分别烹煮,其口感也不一样。”粤菜的生猛折射出岭南文化。林卫辉说:“生猛,正是岭南人不拘一格、善于创新的体现,反映了广东人的价值追求。”

When talking about the characteristics of Cantonese cuisine, Lin Weihui emphasizes its "freshness" and "liveliness". "Cantonese cuisine goes beyond being fresh, it also carries vivid imagery. For instance, the molecular structure of the fish meat differs when the fish is lively swimming compared to when it is motionless, and thus, the taste of the cooked fish in these two states would also differ." The liveliness of Cantonese cuisine reflects Lingnan culture. Lin added, "Liveliness signifies the non-conformity and innovative spirit of Lingnan people, while reflecting the values they pursue."



一盅两件的早茶已成为广州人生活的文化标志,也是粤菜的一个独特类别。几道点心,一壶茶,就能和三五知己享受生活的慢时光。林卫辉说:“喝一顿早茶,花钱不多,但能果腹,人和人之间能沟通感情,做生意的人甚至能在一顿早茶中顺利寻求合作,这就是所谓的花小钱、办大事,反映了岭南人务实的文化精神。”

The tradition of morning dim sum brunch, served as a combined package, has become a cultural symbol of Guangzhou and a distinctive category of Cantonese cuisine. With a few dim sum dishes and a pot of tea, one can indulge in a leisurely moment with friends. Lin remarks, "A dim sum brunch experience may not cost a lot, yet it satisfies hunger and fosters personal connections. Businesspeople can even achieve successful collaborations during a dim sum brunch session. This is the so-called 'gaining significant outcomes with minimal resources', the pragmatic cultural spirit of Lingnan people."


翻译/洪婷