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云上岭南 Lingnan on the Cloud
[Gourmet of Lingnan] Video | Master Chef Huang Shangfeng: exploring palate pleasures with seasonal delicacies 【食尚岭南】视频|粤菜师傅黄尚烽:踏足寻味挖鲜食,巧手演绎时令食材
来源:羊城晚报 云上岭南 发表时间:2023-11-22 13:41

岭南大地,物产富饶。从粤西到粤东,山野遍布,山间滋味和河鲜之物各有特色;从珠三角地区到粤北,“鲜”味和“山”味凸显。生活在食材资源丰饶之地的广东人,对食材挖掘、处理、烹饪有着一套心得,在广州长大的黄尚烽也是如此。

Lingnan, a land of abundance, boasts rich natural resources. From the western to the eastern parts of Guangdong Province, a flavorful journey of mountains and rivers unfolds, each adorned with distinctive delicacies. From the Pearl River Delta to the northern part of Guangdong, the flavors of freshness and mountainous essence are prominent. The people of Guangdong, living in a land abundant with culinary resources, have acquired a wealth of knowledge in ingredient exploration, handling, and cooking techniques. Huang Shangfeng, who grew up in Guangzhou, is no exception.


黄尚烽现任广州富力丽思卡尔顿酒店中餐行政总厨,他的脚步不局限于星级酒店的后厨,而是将自己的足迹扩展至乡间遍野,挖掘地道岭南时令食材,以传统粤菜技艺,融合创新展示方式,呈现岭南滋味。

Huang currently serves as the Executive Chef of Chinese meals at the hotel The Ritz-Carlton in Guangzhou. His culinary journey extends beyond the confines of luxury hotel kitchens, as he ventures into the wild to unearth authentic seasonal ingredients of Lingnan. With his mastery of traditional Cantonese cuisine techniques and innovative presentation methods, he showcases the essence of Lingnan flavors.

黄尚烽在岭南地区的核心之地广州长大,从小和外婆一起生活,对外婆每天亲手烹制的美食形成了深刻的童年记忆。外婆的美食,外婆的味道,这让黄尚烽与美食默默地结下了缘分。

Having grown up in Guangzhou, Huang lived with his grandmother during his childhood. The delicious dishes prepared by his grandmother left a profound imprint on his memories. The flavors crafted by his grandmother fostered a silent bond between Huang and gastronomy.


成为一名厨师并不是黄尚烽唯一的职业选择,机缘巧合下,他与美食正式打交道,“年轻时,发小邀请我到高档的餐厅工作,想着可以增长见识,做什么工作是无所谓的,误打误撞就成为了一名厨师。”

Huang Shangfeng did not originally aspire to be a chef. However, a stroke of luck led him to pursue a career in the culinary arts. "I was offered a job at a prestigious restaurant by a friend when young. Despite the post, I accepted the offer for the sake of broadening my horizons. It was by chance that I stumbled into the world of culinary arts."

然而,初出茅庐的黄尚烽并非学习广府菜,而是学习潮州菜,虽然同是粤菜菜系,但这两种菜系的烹饪方式存在差异。在黄尚烽看来:“广府地区、潮汕地区存在风土文化、饮食习惯上的差别,但同在岭南地区,广府菜和潮州菜也有相似的地方,比如,讲求食材之鲜,还原食材的原汁原味。”

However, as a novice, Huang did not initially study Cantonese cuisine but rather Chaozhou cuisine. Although both are branches of Cantonese cuisine, there are differences in their cooking styles. "There are cultural and dietary differences between Guangzhou and Chaoshan regions. However, as part of the Lingnan cities, Guangzhou and Chaozhou cuisines share similarities, such as emphasizing the freshness of ingredients and preserving their authentic flavors," according to Huang.


追求鲜味、执着鲜味,也是黄尚烽的烹饪理念之一,他烹调美食不仅限于酒店的后厨,而是将脚步延伸至乡间田野。

The pursuit and dedication to freshness is one of Huang's culinary principles. His culinary expertise extends beyond the kitchen, as he further explores delicacies from the wild.

穿上整洁的厨师服,黄尚烽是星级酒店的大厨;脱下厨师服,他是喜爱挖掘时令食材的饕餮。正如黄尚烽所言:“挖掘食材是厨师的天性,要走到食材生长的环境,和当地人深入交流,才能了解食材,熟悉食材的特性。”

Donning a pristine chef's uniform, Huang is the executive chef of a luxury hotel. While removing the uniform, he becomes an enthusiast who enjoys discovering seasonal ingredients. As Huang puts it, "Exploring ingredients is innate to a chef. To understand and familiarize oneself with ingredients, one must immerse in the environment where they grow and engage in deep conversations with the locals."


到广州从化,挖掘颇具生态特色的熊猫笋;到江门台山,寻找地道的都斛青蟹;走到闽南山间,挖掘小山橘……这些乡间滋味被黄尚烽带到星级酒店的餐桌上。

Huang Shangfeng brings rustic flavors he discovered to the tables of luxury hotels, such as the ecologically distinctive sweet dragon bamboo shoots in Conghua District, local green crabs from Duhu Town and small kumquats in the mountains of Southern Fujian.