广州小吃飘香街头小巷，每个人心中总有一款经典的广州小吃存留在记忆之中。牛杂、濑粉、云吞面、肠粉、咸煎饼……数不尽的美味，享不尽的滋味。

As the aroma of snacks wafts through the streets of Guangzhou, each person would think about a classic Canton delicacy in their memories. From beef offal, rice noodles, wonton noodles, and steamed vermicelli rolls, to salted pancakes, the list of delectable culinary delights can go on and on.

伍文辉是西关水菱角制作技艺市级非遗传承人、广东省非物质文化遗产永庆坊工作站负责人。出身于西关家庭的伍文辉从小被饮食氛围包围着，家族三代人熟悉濑粉、水菱角的制作技艺，对于广州小吃有何亮点、如何走得更远，他有着自己的见解。

Wu Wenhui is a recognized inheritor of the intangible cultural heritage (ICH) - Xiguan Rice Flour Water Caltrop making technique, and the head of the ICH workstations at Yong Qing Fang in Guangdong Province. Growing up in a family from Xiguan, Wu has been immersed in the culinary atmosphere since childhood. With three generations of his family well-versed in the craft of rice noodles and rice flour water caltrop, he possesses unique insights into the highlights of Canton snacks and how to push its boundaries further.

在伍文辉心中，艇仔粥和粉是最能代表广州的小吃。

In Wu's opinion, sampan congee and rice noodles are the best delicacies standing for Guangzhou.

伍文辉说：“艇仔粥源于广州荔枝湾和西濠口一带，然后发展到全世界。艇仔粥的用料足，除了有粥，还有生鱼片、瘦肉、油条丝、花生、葱花、蛋丝、浮皮等，食材丰富。另外，艇仔粥是在小艇中售卖，具有水乡特色。”

Wu explains, "Sampan congee originated from Liwan and Xihaokou of Guangzhou and then was brought to the world. Sampan congee is made from various ingredients, including porridge, slices of fresh fish, lean meat, shredded doughnuts, peanuts, chopped green onions, shredded eggs, and crispy toppings. Moreover, sampan congee is served in small boats, reflecting the charm of the water town."

广州的粉类小吃类型丰富，比如濑粉、河粉、布拉肠粉、米粉、猪肠粉等，这些粉类吃法多样，可以炒、可以汤煮，也是广州人常见的早午晚主食。

Guangzhou offers a diverse array of rice noodle-based delicacies, including flat rice noodles, slim rice noodles, and pork rice rolls. These rice noodle variations can be stir-fried or cooked in soup, serving as common staple foods for breakfast, lunch, and dinner among the locals.

伍文辉认为，广州小吃的制作技艺佳，取材于本地，性价比高。“广州有着两千多年的历史，饮食文化丰富，制作小吃的手艺人有部分是传承家族流传的技艺。其次，广州人善于就地取材，比如‘泮塘五秀’中的马蹄能制作马蹄糕、我们本地的米可以磨浆制作粉等。”伍文辉说，走在街头可以发现，广州小吃价格不贵，几十元能吃到多款小吃，且能饱腹。

Wu Wenhui believes that the cooking skills of Guangzhou snacks are exceptional, while the ingredients are locally sourced, making it highly cost-effective. "With a history spanning over 2,000 years, Guangzhou possesses a rich culinary culture. Many snack makers inherit cooking skills from their families. Furthermore, Guangzhou residents are good at making use of local ingredients. For instance, water chestnuts from Bantang can be used to make water chestnut cakes, and our local rice can be ground into flour for making rice noodles," Wu explains. As one walks through the streets, it is apparent that Guangzhou snacks are reasonably priced, with various snacks available for a few tens of yuan to fill one's stomach.

随着外来小吃进入广州市场，广州小吃如何守住技艺的根，如何创新发展？

With the influx of external snacks into the Guangzhou market, how to preserve the traditional local delicacies and promote their innovative development?

伍文辉认为，广州小吃的制作手艺十分传统，有其独特之处，制作技艺必须要保留，这是小吃的根和生命力所在之处。创新，可以体现在小吃的呈现方式和口味上的更改。

According to Wu, the cooking skills of Guangzhou snacks are deeply rooted in tradition, with unique characteristics that must be preserved as the essence and vitality of these snacks. Innovation can be demonstrated through changes in the presentation and flavors of the snacks.

以西关水菱角为例，伍文辉介绍，在制作手法上，坚持以手“濑”粉，这是机器没法替代的。在口味上，西关水菱角则可以作出更多的尝试。如果要创新口味，可以推出咖喱水菱角、芝麻糊水菱角等口味。

Taking Xiguan Rice Flour Water Caltrop as an example, Wu Wenhui holds that the traditional manual process of "separating" the rice noodles cannot be carried out by machines. However, various potentials can be explored when it comes to the flavors of the water caltrops. Options could include introducing curry-flavored or sesame paste-flavored water caltrops.

翻译/洪婷