“人在外地或者外出比较久才回广州的时候，最怀念的就是那一碗广东靓汤。”在很多味道能够被相似菜品替代的当下，粤菜的独特味蕾记忆深深印刻在了何伟生的心中，众多美味粤菜里，汤水对他而言有着特殊地位。

"When I am away from home for a long time, what I miss the most is a bowl of Guangdong-style soup." In an era where many flavors can be substituted by similar dishes, the distinct taste of Cantonese is deeply rooted in the memories of He Weisheng. Among the myriad of delectable Cantonese dishes, soups hold a special place in his heart.

何伟生，资深餐饮顾问、独立食评人，美食界内人称“飞哥”，作为一名土生土长的广州人，长期与粤菜文化的接触，使得他对粤菜味道有着丰富的记忆，潜移默化中，他对粤菜产生了浓厚的兴趣，并通过人生经历、独特见解不断思考着如何推动粤菜进一步向前发展，寻找着粤菜创新的元素。

He Weisheng, a longtime culinary consultant and independent food critic, known affectionately as "Brother Fei" in the gastronomy world, is a true native of Guangzhou. His long-standing connection with Cantonese culinary culture has cultivated a rich tapestry of taste memories in his mind. Imperceptibly, he developed a profound interest in Cantonese cuisine and thus embarked on a journey to advance its evolution, constantly seeking elements of innovation from his life experiences and unique insights.

提到最令飞哥欲罢不能的一道菜时，他毫不犹豫地说出了广东靓汤。“在外地时，粤菜里的很多菜品都能够比较容易地找到类似的味道满足思乡的欲念，唯独煲汤是最难的，因为广东人煲汤，有很多配料的要求、食疗的需求，包括怎么买一些适当的部位去做汤的材料组合，这里头要讲究的东西、要研究的学问都有很多。”飞哥说，“从外地回到广州以后，我会觉得只有喝一口汤，才证明自己思乡的情怀是一直没有断过的。”

Asked about his favorite dish, Fei proclaims Guangdong-style soups without hesitation. "While living away from Guangzhou, it is relatively easy to find similar flavors in many Cantonese dishes to satisfy nostalgia. However, making traditional Cantonese soups remains the most challenging. There are strict requirements on ingredients and dietary considerations, as well as an abundance of knowledge and expertise to be explored." He Weisheng shares, "Upon returning to Guangzhou, I feel that savoring a sip of Cantonese soup is the only way to prove that my homesickness has never waned."

在飞哥心中，广东汤水对食材本味的发挥近乎到达了极致，不同材料的组合让一口清鲜久久不能忘怀，这也是粤菜对食材原汁原味的一种追求。“一提到粤菜，我们听得最多的关键词就是原汁原味，虽然不是所有的粤菜都保持原汁原味，但是在整个中国菜系的范畴里，粤菜确实是对原汁原味的追求表述得最明显的菜系。”

In He's opinion, the Guangdong-style cooking technique of soup maximizes the true essence of ingredients. The combination of different ingredients leaves an unforgettable freshness on the palate, embodying the pursuit of authentic flavors in Cantonese cuisines. "When it comes to Cantonese cuisine, the most frequently mentioned keyword is 'authenticity'. While not all Cantonese dishes adhere to this principle, within the realm of Chinese cuisines, Cantonese cuisine remains the most authentic one."

飞哥认为，广东物产丰富，距离物产出产地又近，而在这个区域的文化上，人们会安排相对富裕的思考时间或闲暇时间，去制作一些对于烹饪时间、对于食材都有所讲究的食物，从而提炼出食材的原汁原味，也让大家对粤菜留有原汁原味的记忆。

He believes that the wealth of resources in Guangdong, its proximity to the source of ingredients, and the cultural inclination to allocate ample time for contemplation on the creation of exquisite dishes, have all contributed to the extraction of the true essence of ingredients, and the indelible impression of authenticity in everyone's memory of Cantonese cuisine.

翻译/洪婷