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云上岭南 Lingnan on the Cloud
Lighting the wok for nostalgic Chinese New Year snacks
来源:羊城晚报 云上岭南 作者:符畅、陈秋明 发表时间:2024-02-06 22:48

As the Year of the Dragon draws near, the celebratory atmosphere in every nook and cranny intensifies. The Cantonese tradition of "lighting the wok" comes alive, as households fill with the essential delights of yau gok (sweet fried dumplings), sesame balls, and sweet egg twists. Each bite evokes the warmest of memories. In a recent gathering at the Hao Family Ancestral Hall in Chebei Village, Tianhe District, Guangzhou, an event themed "Nostalgic Chinese New Year Snacks" was held to welcome the Chinese New Year of the Dragon. The community, both young and old, came together to craft rice cakes, shape sugar rings, prepare yau gok, cook egg twists, and pen Chinese New Year couplets. It was a joyful assembly, where everyone basked in the cherished flavors of their childhood Chinese New Year.

The dough is portioned into small rounds, nestled into molds, and hand-flattened before being firmly tapped with a wooden mallet, then embedding the character of "寿"(longevity) and other designs into its surface. This process births a fresh rice cake. This straightforward and enjoyable method of crafting fried rice cakes has captivated numerous children, eager to give it a go.

A villager fondly recalled, "Growing up, the sight of each family in the village preparing traditional snacks left a lasting impression on me. The moment I caught the sound of cakes being made, I'd dash over to see. It didn't matter if I knew who was making them. I'd always jump in to lend a hand."

Villager Li Meina explained, "Sesame balls represent a home brimming with wealth. Making yao gok is akin to making dumplings. They are stuffed with a mix of sugar, sesame, peanuts, and more. Their 'money pouch' shape embodies affluence and good fortune. Sweet egg twists are a metaphor for family growth and success, while the interconnected sugar rings stand for unity and the sweetness of life." She added that for her and her peers, preparing Chinese New Year snacks is the pinnacle of joy, "I eagerly anticipate the Chinese New Year each time. The moment we start heating the wok, it signals that the Chinese New Year is just around the corner."

开油镬、炸油角,重温“儿时年味”

龙年春节的脚步越来越近,大街小巷的年味也越来越浓。“开油镬”是广府人过年的传统习俗,油角、煎堆、蛋散则是家家户户必备的年货,承载着人们心中最温暖的回忆。近日,广州市天河区车陂村郝氏宗祠举办了一场以“儿时好年味”为主题的龙年春节年宵活动。男女老少村民一同炒米饼、搓糖环、包油角、炸蛋散、写春联……大家欢聚一堂,其乐融融,重温儿时过年的浓浓年味。

将面团分成小圆块,放进模具里,用手将其压平,再用木槌反复敲击,直到将面团打实,印出“寿”字及其他花纹……就这样,一块新鲜的炒米饼就诞生了。炒米饼简单有趣的做法吸引了众多小朋友上手体验。

有村民感叹道,小时候村里家家户户做传统小食的场景深深地刻在了脑海里,“(以前)只要一听见打饼的声音,马上就会冲过去看,也不管是不是认识的人,都会主动帮人家打饼”。

“煎堆寓意‘金银满屋’;油角做法和炸饺子类似,里面包着糖、芝麻、花生等馅料,形状似‘荷包’,有油润、富足的寓意;蛋散寓意开枝散叶、人丁兴旺;糖环的外形环环相扣,寓意团圆美好、甜甜蜜蜜。”村民李美娜说。于她这一代人而言,备年货是最开心的时候,“每年就盼着过年,油镬一开,年就近了”。

文|记者 符畅
图|记者 陈秋明
翻译|郑圣浩