As the saying goes, "No feast is complete without fish." During the cold winter at the end of the year, fish is always an indispensable dish on the dining tables of family reunions. In Xinyi, Guangdong Province, Dangzai Fish tastes tougher, tender, and flavorful in winter. The various dishes made from Dangzai Fish are cherished flavors that overseas Chinese long for.

On January 3rd, in Zhongyan Village, Hongguan Town, villagers were busy in fishing. A joyous scene is thus created with fish leaping from the water to celebrate a bountiful harvest. It is reported that Dangzai Fish, feeding on mountain spring water and green grass, has tender and fresh flesh that is highly favored by diners from far and wide. With a relatively long growing period, sufficient nutrition, and no competition from other species, these fish can reach weights of four to five kilograms within two to three years, and even up to eight kilograms in longer periods of breeding. When placed in oxygenated water bags, Dangzai Fish can swim even further. They were sold at around 70 RMB per kilogram, a wallet-friendly price.

Dangzai Fish is a thousand-year-old local cultural symbol. According to historical materials, the people of Xingyi began raising Dangzai Fish between 860 and 874 AD. Folklore suggests that, at that time, villagers in the mountainous areas dug reservoirs (which were called "Dang" locally) in front and backyards for fire prevention. Later, they started raising grass carp in these reservoirs, from which the name "Dangzai Fish" emerged.

Xinyi is the only nationally designated eco-protection and construction demonstration region in western Guangdong. With its towering mountains, dense forests, and numerous streams flowing all year round, the villagers are used to diverting water from the streams into their reservoirs for raising the carp, feeding them with green plants such as grass, leatherleafs, and cassava leaves. Thanks to the unique flowing water and natural green feed, Dangzai Fish boasts tender flesh, high nutrition, and a unique taste different from other pond fishes.

In the Bozhong Village, Chashan Town, the family of He Qiyong has been raising Dangzai Fish for generations. In 2007, guided by relevant government departments, he expanded the scale of aquaculture. Since 2016, he has been engaging in breeding, purchasing, and sales all at the same time, supplying Dangzai Fish to restaurants in Maoming and the Pearl River Delta area, with an annual production, purchase, and sales volume of 30 to 40 tons. "Xinyi is home to numerous overseas Chinese, Hong Kong, Macao, and Taiwan compatriots. Xinyi people have a deep affection for their hometown, especially when it comes to their admiration for their hometown's distinctive cuisines. Dangzai Fish has a fresh and tender texture with appetizing and nourishing effects. Whenever Xinyi people encounter Dangzai Fish outside their hometown, they always feel the relief of their homesickness as their appetite increase," said He Qiyong.

In rural Xinyi, Dangzai Fish is usually cut into pieces and marinated with aged tangerine peel, soy sauce, ginger shreds, salt, and peanut oil for 20 minutes to absorb the flavors. After marinating, it is evenly stirred and put into a pot with mountain spring water, and slowly simmered over low heat until fully cooked. In restaurants, Dangzai Fish is prepared in three different styles: pan-fried, braised, and deep-fried. This allows for the creation of dozens of dishes, including fish slices, fish rolls, and fish with stuffed lotus roots.

Source:Yangcheng Evening News

茂名信宜凼仔鱼：千年古法养殖，香飘大江南北

俗话说“无鱼不成席”，岁末寒冬，团聚的餐桌上自然少不了鱼，广东省知名侨乡茂名信宜市的凼仔鱼让人垂涎欲滴。冬天的凼仔鱼鱼肉比平时更韧实、更嫩滑、更有鱼味。而凼仔鱼的多种菜式，也是海内外游子极其怀念的味道。

1月3日，在洪冠镇中燕村，村民们捞鱼忙，鱼跃人欢好“丰”景，两百凼仔迎丰收。据介绍，凼仔鱼喝山泉水、食青草，肉质鲜嫩，深受各地食客青睐。凼仔鱼生长时间长，营养充足；放养的种类单一，没有异类的角逐，生息时间较足。一般养殖两三年，鱼儿就能长到4至5公斤；养殖时间长的可达8公斤左右。凼仔鱼装进氧气水袋里，就能“游”得更远。凼仔鱼价格也不错，每公斤售价70元左右。

凼仔鱼，是传承千年的乡土文化符号。据《茂名市志》《信宜县志》记载，唐朝咸同年间（公元860年-874年）信宜(信义）人就开始养殖凼仔鱼，民间说法可以追溯到更久远的朝代。相传山区的村民在房前屋后挖凼（当地人也称氹）蓄水，起初主要是为了防火灾，后来在凼中放养鲩鱼，一凼两用，“凼仔鱼”的名称也由此而来。

据介绍，信宜是粤西地区唯一的国家级生态保护与建设示范区，信宜山高茂林，千泉百溪终年清澈流淌，村民习惯在泉溪流经处引水筑凼放养鲩鱼，投喂青草、芒叶、木薯叶等绿色植物，以独特的微流水，天然绿色饲料养殖，凼仔鱼肉质鲜嫩，营养价值高，异于其他的塘鱼，令人回味无穷。　　

茶山镇渤中村村民何起勇家，世代都养殖凼仔鱼。2007年，他在相关政府部门的指导下，扩大规模养殖；2016年开始，他将养殖、收购和销售相结合，销往茂名市区以及珠三角地区的酒家、饭店，年养殖、收购、销售凼仔鱼30至40吨。何起勇说：“信宜是广东省著名侨乡，海外华侨、港澳台同胞众多。信宜人的家乡情怀很深，尤其对家乡的特色美食推崇备至，凼仔鱼养殖、销售大有可为。凼仔鱼质地鲜美、肉嫩而不腻，有开胃、滋补的功效。出门在外的信宜人每次‘偶遇’凼仔鱼，都会食欲大增，并解思乡之愁。”

在信宜农村，通常要吃鱼的时候，都是把凼仔鱼切成块，用陈皮、酱油、姜丝、盐、花生油腌制20分钟入味。入味后搅拌均匀地放入锅中，再加上山泉水用小火慢焖，至熟透即可上桌。而在酒家、饭店，凼仔鱼则有煎、扣、炸三种不同风味，可制作鱼扣、鱼卷、鱼香藕饼等数十种菜式。

文、图｜羊城晚报记者 詹翔闵 通讯员 高干
翻译｜洪婷