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云上岭南 Lingnan on the Cloud
[Gourmet of Lingnan] Rao Yuansheng: the 'flavor harmony' of Cantonese cuisine rootsin millennialculinary culture 【食尚岭南】岭南食经|饶原生:粤菜“和味”,千年底蕴厚植饮食文化
来源:羊城晚报 云上岭南 发表时间:2023-11-22 13:41

岭南人对粤菜有着敏感的触觉,每一种酱汁、每一样食材、每一款菜式……只要亲口品尝过,都能在心中打出分数。正是嘴刁的岭南人,让他们形成了懂食的基因,在心中总有一道让自己欲罢不能的菜式。

The people of Lingnan are born with a sensitive palate when it comes to Cantonese cuisine. Once tasted, they can assign a score on every sauce, ingredient and dish in their hearts. It is the discerning nature of the Lingnan people that shaped their innate understanding of food since they always have a dish in special favor.


翻开知名广府文化学者、美食作家饶原生的“朋友圈”,能发现他是一名食家,记录身边触手可及的美食,并分享自己的美食见解和心得。

In WeChat Moments of renowned scholar of Cantonese culture and food writer Rao Yuansheng, one could easily discover his passion for food. He documents the accessible delicacies around him while sharing his own insights and experiences with gastronomy.


消夜来一碟镬气十足的炒粉,配上啤酒,足以点亮优哉游哉的夜生活。其中,干炒牛河是众多“夜猫”的挚爱。

When looking for a late-night snack, a delicious plate of sizzling stir-fried rice noodles can be the perfect choice, especially when paired with a cold beer. Among them, stir-fried beef ho fun holds a special place in the hearts of many "night owls."


“哇!提起干炒牛河,简直让人欲罢不能!”饶原生感慨,干炒牛河迎面扑来的热气,直接体现粤菜中的精髓——够镬气。提起干炒牛河,众人第一反应就是要到广州的大排档吃,这样才能品尝地道的粤式风味。

"Wow! Just mentioning stir-fried beef ho fun makes it exciting!" Rao exclaims. The wafting heat emanating from stir-fried beef ho fun embodies the essence of Cantonese cuisine - it has the right amount of wok hei (a charred aroma that fleetingly cloaks the piping-hot stir-fries). When it comes to stir-fried beef ho fun, the immediate response is to head to the bustling outdoor food stalls in Guangzhou, where one can truly savor the authentic Cantonese flavor.



在广州人的餐桌上,少不了一碗靓汤。“当家中煲了靓汤,家人喊我们回家吃饭,是另一种说法,即‘记得回家喝汤’。” 饶原生表示,老火靓汤是自己心目中最爱的美食。“餐前一碗汤,有助开胃。广东人煲汤善用药食同源的理念,根据自己的身体情况,合理饮用汤水,也是调节身体的一种方式。”

On the dining tables of the people in Guangzhou, a bowl of old fire soup (literally "slow cooked soups") is indispensable. "When a delightful soup is simmering at home, family members call us to come home for a meal, which is another way of saying, 'Remember to come home for soup.'" Rao Yuansheng explains that slow-cooked soup is his favorite culinary delight. "A bowl of soup before a meal helps stimulate the appetite. Guangdong people excel at the concept of combining food and medicine. By drinking soup according to their own physical condition, it becomes a way to regulate the body."

无论是干炒牛河、还是老火靓汤,饶原生认为,各式各样的粤菜离不开“和味”二字。“‘和味’有两层含义,一是饮和食德的‘和’;二是粤菜的口感容易让人的味蕾容易接受,粤菜能中和酸甜苦辣咸等各种味道,不会过于凸显某一个味。”

Whether it's stir-fried beef ho fun or old fire soup, Rao believes that the diverse array of Cantonese dishes all revolve around the concept of "harmony in flavor". "The phrase 'harmony in flavor' can be interpreted in two ways: firstly, as the compatibility of food and drink with certain principles, and secondly, as the deliciousness of Cantonese cuisine that can easily satisfy one's taste buds. Cantonese cuisine is known for its ability to balance a variety of flavors, such as sour, sweet, bitter, spicy, and salty, without excessively emphasizing any one particular taste."


谈及粤菜发展,离不开守正创新的话题。“守正很重要,创新也是必然。”饶原生说,粤菜在发展过程中不断变化,如果没有守正,在变的过程中就会丢失粤菜的本质。然而,粤菜也要发展,创新发展一向是粤菜的基因,比如我们熟悉的五柳鱼等,是粤菜通过借鉴其他菜式逐渐演变为自己特色的。

When discussing the evolution of Cantonese cuisine, it is essential to consider the balance between preserving tradition and embracing innovation. Rao emphasizes the importance of holding on to tradition while acknowledging that innovation is inevitable. Cantonese cuisine has undergone constant changes while preserving its essence is vital. Cantonese cuisine needs to adapt and innovate to stay relevant and maintain its "DNA". For instance, dishes like "Fish with five shreded" (steamed fish with shredded scallions, ginger, garlic, mushrooms, and chili peppers) have transformed into unique Cantonese specialties by borrowing from other culinary styles.


随着其他菜系进入广东的餐饮市场,有部分人难免对粤菜的发展产生悲观态度。然而饶原生有着不同的看法,他表示,虽然粤菜有向精致化、高端化的趋势发展,但平、靓、正始终是粤菜的重要特点,相信餐饮市场会守住这一特点。

Despite the emergence of other regional cuisines in Guangdong's dining landscape, some individuals express pessimism regarding the future of Cantonese cuisine. Nonetheless, Rao holds a distinct perspective. He recognizes the shift toward sophistication and high-end dining experiences in Cantonese cuisine, but he firmly believes that the traits of affordability, attractiveness, and authenticity will always remain integral components of Cantonese cuisine. He trusts that the restaurant industry will stay true to these values.