As we explore Guangzhou on the eve of the Mid-Autumn Festival, we begin with a "long-lost traditional mooncake" to learn about the history and evolution of Cantonese-style mooncakes and experience the rich cultural heritage of Cantonese Mid-Autumn traditions.

In the kitchens of the China Hotel, Chef Zhang Weilong, a representative inheritor of the traditional craft of making Cantonese dim sum, particularly flaky pastries, demonstrated how to make mooncakes for us. Having entered the trade in 1987, he has been making Cantonese mooncakes for nearly 40 years. The reporter asked Chef Zhang to teach them how to make one variety of "long-lost traditional mooncakes" filled with walnuts, almonds, and melon seeds, combined with smooth bean paste, giving it a distinctive savory fragrance.

Chef Zhang readily agreed, demonstrating the process while explaining the techniques involved. He emphasized that the key to making Cantonese-style mooncakes lies in the dough, specifically the syrup-based dough. "If the dough is too hard, the filling may separate from it during baking. If it is too soft, the mooncake will lose its structure and collapse," he explained. "The defining feature of Cantonese-style mooncakes is their thin crust and a generous amount of filling, so the dough should be slowly gathered around the filling and sealed."

"There is also an art to unmolding mooncakes," Chef Zhang said. "Just as we might politely knock three times before entering a room, we should also tap the mold three times so that the mooncake comes out more easily." Examining the mooncake they had just made, the reporter saw that the pattern revealed after unmolding was the image of Zhenhai Tower of the Guangzhou Museum. At that moment, the rich cultural heritage embodied in the "long-lost traditional mooncakes" became tangible.

Statistics show that Cantonese-style mooncakes account for 75% of the country's total mooncake production and 90% of its mooncake exports, maintaining their leading position nationwide for 15 consecutive years. Mooncakes from many renowned brands are in high demand year after year, often exceeding supply.

广州赏月，“消失的月饼”里重温粤式团圆

走进中秋前夕的广州，我们从一块“消失的月饼”开始，了解广式月饼的前世今生，触摸广府中秋的文化底蕴。

在中国大酒店后厨，广式点心制作技艺（酥类点心）代表性传承人章维龙师傅为我们示范了做月饼。他1987年入行，跟广式月饼打交道已近40年。记者点名要跟章师傅学做“西施醉月”——“消失的月饼”中的一款，馅料里加入了核桃仁、杏仁、瓜子仁，搭配细腻的豆蓉，有一种独特的咸香。

章师傅欣然应允，还一边示范一边讲解：广式月饼最核心的功夫在皮——糖浆皮。章师傅强调皮也有讲究，“皮硬了，烤出的月饼馅心会分离；皮软了又会‘懈身’，塌下去。广式月饼的第一大特点就是皮薄馅大，所以包的时候要慢慢收口。”

“月饼脱模也是有讲究的。”章师傅说，“就好像我们进门要先礼貌性地敲三下，拿着饼印，也要敲三下，月饼才容易出来。”记者拿着亲手做的月饼细看，脱模后月饼上的花纹，正是广州博物馆镇海楼的图案——“消失的月饼”富含的文化属性，此刻具象了。

据统计，广式月饼占全国产量的75%、出口量占90%，已连续15年领跑全国，不少知名品牌的月饼年年供不应求。

文 | 记者 刘星彤 周欣怡
图 | 潘嘉焌 实习生 罗逸麟
译 | 黄健新
英文审校 | 盛嘉